Migadawon, Sarnath

"Ananda, there are four places the sight of which will arouse strong emotion in those with faith - Which are they? "Here the Tathagata was born" this is the first. "Here the Tathagata attained the supreme enlightenment" – this is the second. "Here the Tathagata set in motion the Wheel of the Dhamma" – this is the third. "Here the Tathagata attained final Nirvana without remainder" – this is the fourth. And the monk, the nun, the layman or the laywoman who has faith should visit these places. And anyone who dies while making a pilgrimage to these shrines with a devoted heart will, at the breaking up of the body at death, be reborn in heaven."

Mahaparinibbhana Sutta

Buddhists followed the pilgrimage at least in its original form, by specifically visiting the four places which has direct association of the Gotama Buddha: i.e., (1) the birth place (Lumbini); (2) the enlightenment (Buddha Gaya/Bodh Gaya); (3) the first sermon (Migadawon, Isipatana/Sarnath); and (4) the final release, mahaparinibbana (Kushinagar).

The other four places that are also associated with the previous and present Tathagatas and also linked with the Great Miracles performed by Gotama Buddha are: (a) Sravasti (Savatthi): where the Lord Buddha took his seat on a thousand petalled lotus and created multiple representations of himself, and also a place where all Buddhas have stayed there the longest years of rain-retreats; (b) Sankisa (Sankasya): where the Lord descended from Tusita (Tushita), the heaven, where he preached the Dhamma to his mother and other gods, to the earth accompanied by the Brahma and Indra; (c) Rajagriha (Rajgir): where the Buddha tamed the wild and mad elephant, and the capital of King Bimbisara; and (d) Vesali (Vaishali), where a monkey offered honey to the Lord and also a place where the Buddha accepted the Bikkhunis.

These eight places are described as Atthamahathanani, eight incidents of Buddha Life as shown on one of the stone slabs in the National Museum in Sarnath.

History

After attainment of supreme enlightenment under the Bodhi tree at Bodh Gaya, the Lord Buddha decided to teach the liberating truths to other people who could understand and followed. After reviewing the situation, the Sakyamuni decided to present his Dhamma to his old companions, who were staying in the Deer Park (Migadaya or Migadawon) at Isipatana (now called Sarnath) near Varanasi (Kasi). These five ascetics had earlier abandoned the Buddha after he gave up his austerities, accusing him of "reverting to the life of luxury", and they assumed their austere practices in the Deer Park.

When the five ascetics knew that the Lord Buddha was coming to the Deer Park, they decided not to welcome him. Yet, as the Sakyamuni came closer to them, one by one, they found themselves spontaneously rose from their seats and paying respect. At first, they refused to believe Gotama, as he claimed, being a Supreme-enlightened one. A large, dome-shaped stupa was built on this spot, which was nowadays called as Chaukhandi Stupa.

Gotama Buddha then gave his first sermon - "Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta", commonly known as "The Great Discourse Setting in Motion on the Wheel of Dhamma", to his five old friends, Kondanna (Kondajja), Bhaddiya, Vappa, Mahanama and Assaji, at the Deer Park of Sarnath (Migadawon/Isipatana) near Varanasi. The Buddha had showed them the Middle Path, neither of luxury nor of asceticism, and the Four Noble truths, "of Suffering, of the Origin of Suffering, of the Cessation of Suffering, and of the Way leading to the Cessation of Suffering – true knowledge and enlightenment". Soon after, he taught his second discourse, the Discourse on Non-self (Anattalakkhana Sutta), after which all became enlightened, and the Buddha transformed and accepted them as his first five disciples (Bhikkhus/Monks).

After a few days, as the result of listening to the Buddha's teachings, 55 noble men including the merchant Yasa (Yasha) and his relatives, became the followers of the Buddha, monks (Bhikkhus/Sangha). The Lord commissioned them to spread the Dhamma around the Majjhimadesa and beyond:

"Go forth, Monks, for the good of the many, for the happiness of the many, out of compassion for the world, for the welfare, the good and happiness of both gods and men. Let no two of you go in the same direction. Teach the Dhamma, which is beautiful in the beginning, beautiful in the middle and beautiful in the end. Explain both the letter and spirit of the holy life, completely fulfilled and perfectly pure."

Gotama Buddha spent the first rains retreat after the enlightenment at Sarnath and had revisited it on second time after thirty-six years. The Buddha again visited Sarnath on several occasions, since a number of discourses were delivered there. In the centuries after the Buddha's final Nirvana, the place had grown into the centre of Buddhist scholarship and art. During the Chinese pilgrim, Huien-tsien's time (around sixth century CE), there were numerous temples and monasteries with over 1500 monks. Somehow, the place has been abandoned for some period by the Buddhist monks and it was only in early nineteenth century, venerable monks from Myanmar and Sri Lanka tried to reestablish Buddhist temples and guest houses for pilgrims. Archaeological surveys and restoration works were done in late 1800s and early 1900s. Today, Migadawon, Sarnath, is one of the most peaceful and pleasant sites of all Buddhist Pilgrimage Sites in the Middle Land.

Migadawon is the place where the Buddha initiated the first order of the disciples of the Lord Buddha, the Bhikkhus, as Sangha Ratana as one of the triple gems. It is from Sarnath, the Dhamma began its journey to spread around the world.

WHAT TO SEE?

Archaeological Site

The site can be visited at day-time, with the purchase of entry ticket: US$5 (equivalent in Rupees); for foreigners, and Rs.5 for Indians and Nepalese.

Dharmarajika Stupa

This stupa is originally built by Emperor Ashoka in the third century BCE, and enlarged to large shrine by successive Buddhist kings. It is near the Asoka's pillar and the Main Monastery, and believed to be the site of the Lord Buddha's first discourse. The last enlargement of the stupa was done during 12th century when the Queen Kumaradevi constructed the Dhammachakka Jina Vihara, whose ruins are still existed till date. The original statue of the Buddha in the gesture of Dhammachakka, now at the National Archaeological Museum of Sarnath, was found on this site. The Chinese pilgrim Huien-tsien saw the stupa as thirty meters high. The stupa was demolished by the local maharaja, Jagat Singhe, to provide the material for construction of a market in the City of Varanasi. Once the beautiful high-dome structure was now only left with the foundations and there is a short pillar at the centre to mark the place as a sacred stupa.

Mulagandhakuti (Main shrine)

The ruined shrine was built at the site of the original place where the Lord Buddha spent his first rains period at Sarnath, hence its name, the "Original Fragrant Hut" or "Mulagandakuti". The shrine has been built and re-built for centuries including those done by King Ashoka. Huien-Tsien has described the shrine as a huge temple with 200 feet high, whose foundations were made of stones and stairs, towers and niches were of brick. On each niche is a golden statue of Buddha. In the middle of the temple is a life-sized figure of Buddha made of copper, representing as turning the wheel of the Dhamma. A fragment of a stone umbrella with the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta inscribed on it. The inscription dated back to the King Ashoka period, written in Pali. This piece of stone umbrella is displayed in Sarnath museum.

Ashoka Pillar

The Ashoka Pillar is originally over 15 meters high and crowned with the magnificent lion capital (which is now in the museum). The pillar broken into pieces is discovered among the ruins in 1905, and part of the pieces are now showed behind the Mulagandhakuti. The famous lion-capital fitted with the heads of four lions, is used as the State symbol of the Government of India. The pillar bears the inscription by King Ashoka, giving warning to the monks and nuns against creating schism. Similar edict with minor differences is also found on Ashoka's pillars in Sanchi and elsewhere.

Dharmekha Stupa

A massive solid cylindrical stupa, that can be noticeable from a distance, from the mail ruins is the Dharmekha stupa. This stupa is originally built during the Mauryan period in third century BCE, and enlarged by successive kings. It is believed to be the site where the Lord Buddha gave his second discourse, the Anattalakkhana Sutta. It is about 28 meters in diameter and 33 meters in height. The stupa has 8 faces at the height of 6m, each with an arched recess for an image.

Dhammacakka Jina Vihara

The largest monastery ever built at Sarnath about 90m long at the northern extent of the ruins is built by the Queen Kumaradevi in 11th century. There is a long underground tunnel, the exact purpose of which is unknown.

Chaukandi Stupa

Before entering one kilometer to the main Archaeological site on the Varanasi-Sarnath road, there is large dome- stupa known as "Chaukandhi Stupa." Excavations of the stupa are continuing till date. On top of the stupa, an octagonal tower was built in 1588 to commemorate a visit by the Mogul King Humayun. The stupa site is assumed to be the site where the five ascetics met the Lord Buddha on his way to the Deer Park of Sarnath.

Archaeological Museum

The museum opens everyday except Fridays, 10am to 5pm, with an entry fee of Rs.5/-. At least 3 hours time is needed to look around and for a deeper understanding of various artifacts, specimens and exhibits. The oldest and finest piece as well as the centre piece of the museum is the Ashoka Lion-Capital, carved out of a single block of black spotted buff-colored sandstone. It is the national emblem of India, which measures 2.31 m in height. It is surmounted by four magnificent lions sitting back with a wheel in between them.

Another piece of exhibits is the famous teaching Buddha, found in 1905 just to the south of the Dharmarajika Stupa and may have been one of the several that originally once sat around the stupa. It is the posture of the Lord Buddha showing "Turning the Wheel of the Dhamma", probably made around 5th century CE.

Mulagandakuti Vihara (Mahabodhi Society)

On the eastern side of the main archaeological site, Mulagandhakuti Vihara was built in 1931 by Anagarika Dharmapala from Sri Lanka, who is the founder of Mahabodhi Society. Main shrine of the Vihara contained the Buddha's relics found in various places of India. On the eastern side of the Vihara, a Bodhi Tree, a sapling of the Bodhi Tree at Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, was planted by Anagarika in 1931. A small platform with a pavilion built by the Myanmar pilgrims consisting of the Lord Buddha preaching to the five disciples.

Deer Park

The word Migadaya (Migadawon) means the resort of deer and the literature indicated that there are hundreds of deer lived in the forest of Sarnath (Isipatana) during the time of the Lord Buddha. The present day deer park has been set up to show Migadawon as a place of deers. The park was established during the occasion of 2500th year of Buddha.

Myanmar Buddhist Temple (Dhammachakka Vihara)

The late Venerable U Chandramani, a Myanmar monk stayed at Myanmar Buddhist Temple at Kushinagar, acquired some land and managed to establish a small monastery in 1908, in the midst of the Migadawon Forest, quite close to the place where the Lord Buddha preached his very first sermons, long before the Government of India declared the Migadawon Deer Park in Sarnath as an archaeological site. A small rest house for pilgrims built on donation by U Mya Tun of Sittwe, Myanmar was completed in 1910.

Venerable U Chandramani of Kusinagar, Venerable U Thuriya of Thayettawtaik, Yangon, Venerable U Kittima of Sarnath, Venerable U Kawthala of Payagyitaik, Yangon, together with Upasakas and Upasikas established the "Sarnath Buddhist Society" with administering Myanmar Buddhist religious buildings and temple grounds, and with the sole aim of reviving the decadent Buddha Sasana in the land of origin.

Venerable U Chandramani and later Sayadaw U Kittima, with the help of the Sarnath Buddhist Society and the pilgrims from Myanmar built a series of monasteries and other related buildings:  

(1)Maha Wijitawi Sima house in 1934, donated by Daw Phyu and family of Yangon; 

(2) Saddhammaransi (Thatdhammayanthi) Pitaka Library and a surface well in 1934, donated by U Shwe Win and Daw Thaung May of Yangon;

(3) Dhammachakka Vihara for the residence monks in 1937, donated by U Kyaw Zan and Daw Hla U of Yangon.

The first Chief resident monk was Venerable U Chandramani, followed by Venerable U Kittima from 1928-1950, and then, Venerable Teikkheindriya (1950-1987). Venerable U Wannadhaza is the present Chief resident monk since 1987. There was a time when Sayadaw U Wannadhaza encountered numerous difficulties for maintaining the buildings and also catering the Myanmar and other pilgrims, due to lack of Buddhist devotees nearby and having to depend solely on the devotees from afar. Following the examples of Ashin U Chandramani and Sayadaw U Kittima, several new buildings and renovation of old structures have been carried out after Myanmar Government's promotion of pilgrimage to Buddha places after 1990. The Government of Myanmar and the pilgrims visiting Sarnath during the last decade have helped the Sayadaw U Wannadhaza's unfailing sadha and viriya, by adding a new three storey rest house for pilgrims, a new dhamma parlour, renovated existing structures to reflect the traditional Myanmar architecture, and improvement to have adequate water supply, sanitation, electricity, cooking facility and transportation.

Further readings:

1. Ven. S. Dhammika (1999), Middle Land Middle Way, A Pilgrim's Guide to the Buddha's India, Second Edition (Revised 1999), Buddhist Publication Society, Kandy, Sri Lanka

2. Rana PB Singh (2003), Where the Buddha Walked, A companion to the Buddhist Places of India, Indica Books, Varanasi, India

3. Revan Hart (New Edition, 2005), Where the Buddha Trod, A Stamford lake Publication (1954), Sri Lanka

4. Sein Tun Aung (2002), The Life Story of Sri Bhaddanta Chandramani Mahathera, U Chandramani Foundation, Sarnath